San Francisco-Part II: Happy, Happy, Happy in Chinatown and More.

As we continue our San Francisco visit, we move a few blocks west of Union Square to Chinatown. This predominantly Chinese community was founded in the mid-1800’s and is a must see for tourists. The oldest in North America, it is reported to have the largest Chinese population outside of Asia. Walking down its crowded streets, it is not uncommon to hear several different Chinese dialects and not a word of American English for lengthy periods. Visit the quaint shops where bargaining is often not only allowed, but encouraged. In a sea of standard San Francisco branded tchotchkes, these shops can hold hidden treasures for discerning shoppers. A favorite is the Canton Bazaar at 606 Grant Street. Though shopping in Chinatown can be fun, what I prefer to do here is eat and drink.

The Bar Nun has written about my favorite little watering hole, the Li Po. It’s certainly worth a visit for their famous Mai Tai, but don’t expect anything too fancy. This place, like much of Chinatown, is well travelled. Across the street is the Buddha Lounge. The Buddha is even smaller and more of a dive than the Li Po. However, I can think of worse things than standing at the bar with a nice pour of your beverage of choice while watching the “Happy, Happy, Happy Man”. Another interesting option is the Empress of China. This once glorious restaurant has certainly seen better days. Upon entering, you’ll see a wall of photos of people whom I am guessing to be the owners with top celebrities. Unfortunately these celebrities, much like the Empress of China, have seen the spotlight come and go, or may even be no longer with us. I can only imagine the opulence of this place in the 70’s and early 80’s. Take the elevator to the top floor lounge. I have never tried the food, but the bar offers great views of busy streets six floors below, Coit Tower, North Beach, and Russian Hill. Pictures of those great views can be a bit tricky because of the reinforced wire windows; however, a decent optical zoom and no flash will do the trick. Of course, you can always blame any poor pictures from this fantastic vantage point on the abundant booze.

Chinatown also has some delicious eateries. It is hard to go two or three storefronts without seeing glistening roasted ducks or tasty bakery treats in the windows. My advice is to pick one that looks good and keep your fingers crossed. Chances are you will have a great, inexpensive meal. One food item I have yet to thoroughly enjoy in San Francisco’s Chinatown is sit-down Dim Sum. I have read about great take-away joints, but I like to have my shrimp balls presented by ladies with carts. You would think this place would be crawling with good sit-down establishments, but I have yet to find a stand out.

At the western edge of Chinatown is Broadway. This street and surrounding area are home to many of San Francisco’s gentleman’s clubs and the Francis Ford Coppola owned Columbus Tower. The Columbus Tower is very photogenic and if lined up properly you can snap a cool picture with it in the foreground and the Transamerica Tower in the background.


Across town is the Civic Center and adjacent Tenderloin. The Civic Center area is home to City Hall, the Supreme Court of California, and the Opera House. The Tenderloin is not. Both areas are worth a look, but don’t plan on spending much time in either. I highly recommend checking out the recently renovated City Hall and hear good things about the Asian Art Museum. The Civic Center is also home to various open air festivals such as Slow Food Nation in the summer months. Due to its close proximity to the TL, at night this area can be extremely different from the center of San Francisco politics and cultural events its hosts during the day. Since many events are held at night, direct transportation is strongly encouraged. Otherwise wandering these parts during the late night hours may provide you with some unexpected entertainment.

Which brings us to the Tenderloin. It’s hard to avoid the TL as it’s close to almost everything in the downtown area. Whether native San Franciscan’s want to admit it or not, this could almost be considered the heart of this grand city. In the middle of everything and full of life, this neighborhood is home to some of the most affordable housing in the city. Many of the apartments in this section actually are bigger than a large closet and rent for less than 2k a month. This allows some of the city’s struggling artists, hip bartenders, up-and-coming chefs and others a decent sized placed to call home. As such deals are not easy to find elsewhere, it comes with a catch. You won’t find many tourist stops in this part of town, as it contains a high transient and criminal population.

At the edge of the TL is Polk Street. This lively area is home to multiple hip bars and eateries. Check out internet café Quetzal at 1234 Polk for a decent cup of coffee and healthy breakfast or lunch. Then head west, up Nob Hill to see what else this area has to offer. If you are a fan of Greek fare, be sure to stop at Myconos for the two person specials. Bring your appetite, the portions are enormous. Don’t worry though, if you are by yourself, they also offer smaller options such as Gyros, Souvlaki, and more.

One street over on Van Ness, across from the Opal Hotel is Tommy’s Joynt. Though I’d heard some good things about Tommy’s Joynt, I was a bit reluctant, since it had been featured on a food show hosted by a bleached blond spiky haired, backwards sunglasses wearing goof of whom I am distinctly not a fan. Fortunately for me this “dive” did not disappoint. The corned beef was melt in your mouth tender and rivals the best sandwiches of the East Coast deli scene. Both food and beverages are on the inexpensive side and this place had me coming back for more over the course of several days.

For me, Chinatown, the Civic Center and the areas in close proximity to the Tenderloin are of the most enjoyable for experiencing “city life”. All three are very different and offer a variety of solid dining options, bargain shopping and diverse culture. JJ

Part III will feature Fisherman’s Warf, Alcatraz and the Golden Gate Bridge.

Check out our pictures of San Francisco by clicking here.

Related:

San Francisco, CA-Part I=No Snappy Title. Just the Intro and Union Square.