San Francisco-Part II: Happy, Happy, Happy in Chinatown and More.

As we continue our San Francisco visit, we move a few blocks west of Union Square to Chinatown. This predominantly Chinese community was founded in the mid-1800’s and is a must see for tourists. The oldest in North America, it is reported to have the largest Chinese population outside of Asia. Walking down its crowded streets, it is not uncommon to hear several different Chinese dialects and not a word of American English for lengthy periods. Visit the quaint shops where bargaining is often not only allowed, but encouraged. In a sea of standard San Francisco branded tchotchkes, these shops can hold hidden treasures for discerning shoppers. A favorite is the Canton Bazaar at 606 Grant Street. Though shopping in Chinatown can be fun, what I prefer to do here is eat and drink.

The Bar Nun has written about my favorite little watering hole, the Li Po. It’s certainly worth a visit for their famous Mai Tai, but don’t expect anything too fancy. This place, like much of Chinatown, is well travelled. Across the street is the Buddha Lounge. The Buddha is even smaller and more of a dive than the Li Po. However, I can think of worse things than standing at the bar with a nice pour of your beverage of choice while watching the “Happy, Happy, Happy Man”. Another interesting option is the Empress of China. This once glorious restaurant has certainly seen better days. Upon entering, you’ll see a wall of photos of people whom I am guessing to be the owners with top celebrities. Unfortunately these celebrities, much like the Empress of China, have seen the spotlight come and go, or may even be no longer with us. I can only imagine the opulence of this place in the 70’s and early 80’s. Take the elevator to the top floor lounge. I have never tried the food, but the bar offers great views of busy streets six floors below, Coit Tower, North Beach, and Russian Hill. Pictures of those great views can be a bit tricky because of the reinforced wire windows; however, a decent optical zoom and no flash will do the trick. Of course, you can always blame any poor pictures from this fantastic vantage point on the abundant booze.

Chinatown also has some delicious eateries. It is hard to go two or three storefronts without seeing glistening roasted ducks or tasty bakery treats in the windows. My advice is to pick one that looks good and keep your fingers crossed. Chances are you will have a great, inexpensive meal. One food item I have yet to thoroughly enjoy in San Francisco’s Chinatown is sit-down Dim Sum. I have read about great take-away joints, but I like to have my shrimp balls presented by ladies with carts. You would think this place would be crawling with good sit-down establishments, but I have yet to find a stand out.

At the western edge of Chinatown is Broadway. This street and surrounding area are home to many of San Francisco’s gentleman’s clubs and the Francis Ford Coppola owned Columbus Tower. The Columbus Tower is very photogenic and if lined up properly you can snap a cool picture with it in the foreground and the Transamerica Tower in the background.


Across town is the Civic Center and adjacent Tenderloin. The Civic Center area is home to City Hall, the Supreme Court of California, and the Opera House. The Tenderloin is not. Both areas are worth a look, but don’t plan on spending much time in either. I highly recommend checking out the recently renovated City Hall and hear good things about the Asian Art Museum. The Civic Center is also home to various open air festivals such as Slow Food Nation in the summer months. Due to its close proximity to the TL, at night this area can be extremely different from the center of San Francisco politics and cultural events its hosts during the day. Since many events are held at night, direct transportation is strongly encouraged. Otherwise wandering these parts during the late night hours may provide you with some unexpected entertainment.

Which brings us to the Tenderloin. It’s hard to avoid the TL as it’s close to almost everything in the downtown area. Whether native San Franciscan’s want to admit it or not, this could almost be considered the heart of this grand city. In the middle of everything and full of life, this neighborhood is home to some of the most affordable housing in the city. Many of the apartments in this section actually are bigger than a large closet and rent for less than 2k a month. This allows some of the city’s struggling artists, hip bartenders, up-and-coming chefs and others a decent sized placed to call home. As such deals are not easy to find elsewhere, it comes with a catch. You won’t find many tourist stops in this part of town, as it contains a high transient and criminal population.

At the edge of the TL is Polk Street. This lively area is home to multiple hip bars and eateries. Check out internet café Quetzal at 1234 Polk for a decent cup of coffee and healthy breakfast or lunch. Then head west, up Nob Hill to see what else this area has to offer. If you are a fan of Greek fare, be sure to stop at Myconos for the two person specials. Bring your appetite, the portions are enormous. Don’t worry though, if you are by yourself, they also offer smaller options such as Gyros, Souvlaki, and more.

One street over on Van Ness, across from the Opal Hotel is Tommy’s Joynt. Though I’d heard some good things about Tommy’s Joynt, I was a bit reluctant, since it had been featured on a food show hosted by a bleached blond spiky haired, backwards sunglasses wearing goof of whom I am distinctly not a fan. Fortunately for me this “dive” did not disappoint. The corned beef was melt in your mouth tender and rivals the best sandwiches of the East Coast deli scene. Both food and beverages are on the inexpensive side and this place had me coming back for more over the course of several days.

For me, Chinatown, the Civic Center and the areas in close proximity to the Tenderloin are of the most enjoyable for experiencing “city life”. All three are very different and offer a variety of solid dining options, bargain shopping and diverse culture. JJ

Part III will feature Fisherman’s Warf, Alcatraz and the Golden Gate Bridge.

Check out our pictures of San Francisco by clicking here.

Related:

San Francisco, CA-Part I=No Snappy Title. Just the Intro and Union Square.

BAR NUN-Li Po San Francisco, CA

Li Po on Yelp

The Li Po is a delightfully seedy little lounge in San Francisco’s Chinatown that’s remarkably not attached to a Chinese restaurant. This section of the bar that’s shown in the photo to the lower right is the only part that’s not totally run-down & decrepit. Don’t look too closely at this part, either. Because when you first walk through the cavernous facade, it looks amazing, like a dive bar in a 1950’s Buddhist temple. Once you turn the corner to the left, where the bar rail ends, so does the faded glamour. Beyond the bartender’s reach is a room like you’ll find in any other bar, with beer poster covered walls & fake wood grain formica topped tables & booths.

The signature cocktail at the Li Po is the Mai-Tai, made with some type of rose liquor. What this stuff is, is evidently an ancient Chinese secret, because no one seems to know. But it is fabulous looking, large & delicious, no matter what they put in it. All their drinks are generously poured, however, so you need not endure umbrella drinks if it’s not your style. Your beverage will still be plenty satisfying. Other good things at the Li Po include a jukebox well stocked with 1970’s classic artists, such as Neil Diamond & Tom Jones. The staff is typically pretty friendly, too.

The Bar Nun definitely recommends that you go during the afternoon, though. Stroll over after a nice greasy dim sum brunch and re/dehydrate. The bathrooms, located down a narrow, slippery staircase, are pretty heinous during the day, so later on, after much more use, I can’t begin to imagine how scrungy they must get. I also understand that at night, the scary scary basement frequently hosts live bands, which causes the Li Po to be overrun with hipsters, instead of the usual mellow afternoon barflies one generally finds there.

Once you’ve bravely trekked down the block past the crazy old man on the corner of Grant & Washington who constantly yells “Happy happy happy” while waving an immense sign informing passers-by about how W & the Dali Lama are war criminals, you’ll deserve that Mai-Tai. FP

916 Grant Avenue CA 94108

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New York City-An Inconvenient Series of Unfortunate Misconceptions and Half-truths

New York City. A place that I have always wanted to visit, but I only recently made it. Boy, am I glad I did! The Big Apple, the City that Never Sleeps, you know all the nicknames. It’s a place that truly has LIFE. Though hard around the edges, New Yorkers have nothing to hide. They seem to lay it out there for all to see and don’t care what you think. I’m not sure what Sarah Palin was referring to when she described what “real Americans” are, but I would have to give that designation to the fine people of New York City. Here, it takes all kinds, it’s a true melting pot if there ever was one.

There are many misconceptions about New York and its inhabitants. I’m not sure if New Yorkers want it this way, but it’s true in my experience. Certainly New Yorkers move at speeds just a bit faster than most others, there is an excessive amount of honking, and most everyone wears black. I think it’s required that one must wear at least one item of black clothing. However, there are many stereotypes about the city and its people that I had difficulty proving. The first, that New Yorkers are rude. Not true. Sure they have their moments, but I would view it as being more “direct” than anything. The majority of my experience was thoughtful, helpful, and downright courteous souls that were willing to do what needed to be done. They are genuine in their approach and quickly move on when the task is complete. Now I live in a supposedly friendly West Coast city where the people are not as nearly as good hearted. Sure, in my town, they may walk down the street with a smile and give you a nod as you pass, but most are also not willing to provide any assistance when needed. In addition, you never really know where you stand with most of these people. Not in New York. Good or bad you always seem to have an idea of how the situation is going to unfold.

The second misconception, that New York is overwhelming. Yes, it is a city of over 8 million people and can be difficult to navigate at times, but common sense will prevail. There are plenty of landmarks by which to get your bearings, helpful signs to steer you in the right direction, and a century old subway system that is clean and efficient. As with any trip, plan ahead. Pick up a Lonely Planet or Moon guide and understand the basics. From there, decide on the attractions that you must see, would like to see, and the ones that would be nice to see. Break those down by location and budget, then buy a comfortable pair of walking shoes. In the end, hopefully you will have seen most of what you wanted and can save the rest for next time. I’m sure they’ll be waiting for you. Later in this article I’ll provide you with my top picks.

Third, New York City is filthy and there are rats everywhere. Even this one surprised me, as I like a bit of grit and was fully expecting it. I’m here to say New York is clean. Granted, it’s not spotless, but compared to the likes of Los Angeles, San Francisco, or even Las Vegas, it’s a clean place. Very little litter on the streets, limited graffiti, and very few visible rats. I’d been told that I’d see rats all over, and giant ones at that. In eight days I saw two and one of those was in Coney Island. Giant rats? No, about the size of a small cat. I’m sure they’re lurking in the dark, dank places that aren’t meant for me to see, but isn’t that the point? Out of sight, out of mind?

Now I understand those tacky “I heart NY” t-shirts that every tourist seems to buy. It’s true. New York is a city that is beloved. But most of that love is not from the millions of people that flock to Times Square and the top of the Empire State building. That love comes from people that live there day after day. They have pride in this remarkable city and they wear it as a badge of honor. If you have never been, go. If you have been before, go again. And if you experience it every day, you are very fortunate to call New York City home.

Here are my New York City tourist tips:

• Try staying in the “other” boroughs. New York City is not just Manhattan. Spend a few days experiencing Brooklyn, the Bronx, Queens, and Staten Island. Trust me, they have something for everyone. I have captured some of my Brooklyn experience below.
• There is such a thing as free. The Staten Island Ferry (big orange boat, hard to miss) is free. Even better, the ferry provides a great view of the Statue of Liberty. Go to the Whitehall Terminal at the southern tip of Manhattan. Boats leave every 30 minutes. Once on board, find the lower level and move to the outside deck for great photo opportunities. These decks are larger and less crowded than the entrance level.
• The subway. Speaking of public transportation, this one isn’t free, but it will get you everywhere you need to go. Convenient and relatively clean, it’s one of the most efficient subway systems in the world. Plan well, be aware of your surroundings, avoid rush hour if possible and be aware that some stops close during non-peak hours. Most of all, enjoy the experience, especially if you live in a large city without mass transit.
• Hoof it. While riding the subway from point to point is the most efficient way to get around, don’t forget to venture above ground as well. Seeing the city from street level is a fantastic way to get the lay of the land and see the many intricacies that NYC has to offer. SoHo, the East Village, Rockefeller Center, Times Square and Central Park are just a few of the prime sauntering locations.
• It’s kind of hip to be Square. Though I would consider Times Square a must see, limit your time in this tourist trap. To see it at night is more enjoyable than daytime; however, I can’t help but feel, as many native New Yorkers have complained before, that it’s New York’s version of Disneyland. Less edgy than days gone by, you may be overwhelmed by Mickey, Ronald, and supersized toy stores than intrigued by any sort of edginess it may have once had.
• You can’t top it. You hear a lot about going to the top of the Empire State Building for breathtaking views of the city. My advice, go to the top of Rockefeller Center and enjoy views of both the Empire State Building and Central Park instead. Unfortunately you can only see a slice of the Chrysler Building from here; however, you are able to capture a more complete image of the Manhattan skyline and the bustling cityscape below. $20 will get you to the top. It’s worth it.
• I’ll buy it! A walk on the Brooklyn Bridge is a very memorable experience and a great photo opportunity. At almost 6,000 feet long there is no need to cross the bridge, as a stroll to the half way point is sufficient. Actual New Yorkers still use the bridge for running and biking, so be aware when looking up to snap pictures. Otherwise you might just hear “watch out!”.

And the food:

• Eat the pizza. Everyone talks about it. Large, cheesy, greasy…and delicious. Pick any halfway decent looking pizzeria and you won’t walk out disappointed. Even better after a night of boozing.
• Papaya King. Sorry Nathan’s, this hot dog is the pride of New York. Get the Original Special that includes two Frankfurters with your choice of tangy kraut, grilled onions or tropical relish, and a 16 oz. tropical drink.

• When Harry met Pastrami. Truth be told, I have never seen When Harry Met Sally. Never actually want to. So when I told someone that I really wanted to eat at Katz’s, I was a bit puzzled by their look of disgust. This expression was a result of the 1980’s film and not the excellent food that is served at Katz’s Delicatessen. The pastrami is a must. You know when a place of this reputation is still filled with locals, it must be good. And last but not least, don’t forget to send Salami to your boy in the Army! It will make sense after you visit. See Bourdain's related blog article about places likes Katz's not fading away any time soon.

Featured 'hood: Park Slope, Brooklyn

They say that Park Slope is the part of Brooklyn that families relocating from Manhattan gravitate towards. Well kept brownstones, large parks and plenty of quaint eateries probably play a big part in this decision. With less commotion, it still feels like New York City.

I feel fortunate that we chose to stay in Park Slope during most of our recent visit. It’s away from all the other tourists and it provided a nice break from the high prices of almost everything in Manhattan. Some call it one of the first areas in Brooklyn’s rapid gentrification. This is most apparent on 5^th and 7^th Streets. There are plenty good food, quality spirits and a diverse group of New Yorkers going about their lives without the disruption that comes with “out of towners” like us. Though often apparent that we did not reside in Park Slope, we were always made to feel like we were from the ‘hood.

It should be noted that hotels are rare in these parts and though less expensive than Manhattan, it can be a bit more of a challenge to find a place. We found a reasonably priced, yet worn around the edges room in a shared brownstone on VRBO. It worked out well, but I recommend doing your homework and finding a place with at least a handful of recommendations.

See

• Prospect Park-The little sister to Central Park, this “585-acre urban oasis” is located on the north edge of Park Slope. Go to one of the local establishments for some take out and have a picnic in the park.
• Brooklyn Central Public Library-At the north entrance to Prospect Park, this massive library is a sight to see. Check it out!

Eat

• Chip Shop-Deep fried English goodness. Try the Cod & Fries and a side of the Deep Fried Mac & Cheese. This place has great beer and tea selections. The special desert when we visited in March was a deep fried Cadbury Egg. Wait staff was jolly excellent! 383 5th Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11215
• Rachel's Taqueria-Enjoy a hand squeezed grapefruit margarita or the Rachel margarita with prickly pear and sweet nectar. Yes, they have better than average Tex-Mex grub as well. 408 5th Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11215
• Blue Ribbon Sushi-Brooklyn branch of this Manhattan chain. Good quality sushi, but a bit on the pricier side. 278 5th Avenue, Brooklyn, NY 11215

Drink

• Royale-A dark hole in the wall with good drinks. Late nights liven up the place, for better or worse. 506 5th Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11215
• Smith's Tavern-run of the mill Irish dive. The décor is nothing special, but strong pours do the trick. 440 5th Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11215
• Commonwealth-great neighborhood bar with better than average juke box. 497 5th Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11215

New York is a true adventure that has a little (and most often a lot) for everyone. Enjoy. JJ

Want to see more of our New York City photos? Click here.

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BAR NUN-Lucky 13 San Francisco, CA

Lucky 13 My Space page...blah!
Welcome to the inaugural edition of the Bar Nun. The title for this column was the idea of my partner, who laughed for hours (to himself) after he thought of it. I think of myself as more of a Bar Hag, but he claims I’m really not so much in the hag category yet. You be the judge. So since he calls me a nun due to my modesty issues, we’re calling it Bar Nun. He thinks this is an absolute scream.

Something you should know about me is that I love bars. Bars of all kinds. But for me, the best kinds are dive bars. You know them. In every city, there they are, dark, dank, possibly smelling of used ashtrays, whether smoking is allowed or not. Dogs &/or motorcycles parked outside. Tatooed bouncers. Cracked vinyl. Beer in cans. Lovely. I’m a total boozer, so don’t expect any reviews of taverns, no matter how charming & ye olde-y they are. Full hard alcohol service required to entice the Bar Nun.

A place that is particularly high on my list is the Lucky 13 in San Francisco, CA, USA. It’s in the Castro on Market Street not far from the Church Street Muni stop, which I appreciate because I do not want to go to jail for driving drunk. I aggressively advocate against my going to jail for driving drunk (or any other reason).

The Lucky 13 is dark & deep. It has no windows. The further in you go, the more ensconced in the bar atmosphere you become. Everything outside the bar melts away like a single ice cube in a hand warmed glass of Jameson.

Obviously, there’s a wee bit of a Halloween thing going here, but I swear it’s not a corny “theme” joint. The décor is spooky-cute with spider web murals & an extensive collection of unique rock show art posters. The cavernous ambiance is undisturbed by TVs or bar top trivia games. Rare lately. No food is served, but there is a super salty popcorn machine to keep you thirsty for beers. Sometimes, unpredictably, a cigarette girl-style snack vendor will materialize to sell you a $4 box of Milk Duds. Also, there is pinball. I care a great deal for pinball.

The kind of folks you will find hanging out at the Lucky 13 are modern bikers, laid back rockers & punk kids. Dogs are allowed too, but you will not find many hipster or scene-maker types. If you do feel like making a scene, take it to the photo booth, chumps. You can capture your antics on film with your choice of borders on the four picture strip, including the classic Wanted Poster. My favorite, of course.

The most wonderful thing about this bar, however, is that it hosts the most amazing punk rock packed jukebox the Bar Nun has ever encountered. A lot of the records are compilations, presumably made by the staff. It’s pretty eclectic. Last time I was there, the selection included Motorhead, a little Zeke, a smidge of Dead Boys, Teen Angels, some Germs & Cramps. Oh yes, that jukebox will rock you ALL NIGHT LONG, Lionel Richie. Don’t expect to find anything that’s ever been in the Top 40.

Now I’ve heard tell that some folks think the jukebox at Casino El Camino in Austin, TX USA is the best punk rock jukebox in the nation, but I must disagree. When I last looked it over, it was approximately 50% country discs. & really, nowhere else have I ever seen Zeke in a jukebox. Which is a damn shame, as I must admit it prefer it to Ernest Tubb. So check out the Lucky 13 when you’re in SF. They have a lot of booze.

In the immoral words of D. Lux Interior “Let’s go downtown & get beat up”. FP

2140 Market St. San Francisco, CA 94114