There are many misconceptions about New York and its inhabitants. I’m not sure if New Yorkers want it this way, but it’s true in my experience. Certainly New Yorkers move at speeds just a bit faster than most others, there is an excessive amount of honking, and most everyone wears black. I think it’s required that one must wear at least one item of black clothing. However, there are many stereotypes about the city and its people that I had difficulty proving. The first, that New Yorkers are rude. Not true. Sure they have their moments, but I would view it as being more “direct” than anything. The majority of my experience was thoughtful, helpful, and downright courteous souls that were willing to do what needed to be done. They are genuine in their approach and quickly move on when the task is complete. Now I live in a supposedly friendly West Coast city where the people are not as nearly as good hearted. Sure, in my town, they may walk down the street with a smile and give you a nod as you pass, but most are also not willing to provide any assistance when needed. In addition, you never really know where you stand with most of these people. Not in New York. Good or bad you always seem to have an idea of how the situation is going to unfold.
The second misconception, that New York is overwhelming. Yes, it is a city of over 8 million people and can be difficult to navigate at times, but common sense will prevail. There are plenty of landmarks by which to get your bearings, helpful signs to steer you in the right direction, and a century old subway system that is clean and efficient. As with any trip, plan ahead. Pick up a Lonely Planet or Moon guide and understand the basics. From there, decide on the attractions that you must see, would like to see, and the ones that would be nice to see. Break those down by location and budget, then buy a comfortable pair of walking shoes. In the end, hopefully you will have seen most of what you wanted and can save the rest for next time. I’m sure they’ll be waiting for you. Later in this article I’ll provide you with my top picks.
Third, New York City is filthy and there are rats everywhere. Even this one surprised me, as I like a bit of grit and was fully expecting it. I’m here to say New York is clean. Granted, it’s not spotless, but compared to the likes of Los Angeles, San Francisco, or even Las Vegas, it’s a clean place. Very little litter on the streets, limited graffiti, and very few visible rats. I’d been told that I’d see rats all over, and giant ones at that. In eight days I saw two and one of those was in Coney Island. Giant rats? No, about the size of a small cat. I’m sure they’re lurking in the dark, dank places that aren’t meant for me to see, but isn’t that the point? Out of sight, out of mind?
Now I understand those tacky “I heart NY” t-shirts that every tourist seems to buy. It’s true. New York is a city that is beloved. But most of that love is not from the millions of people that flock to Times Square and the top of the Empire State building. That love comes from people that live there day after day. They have pride in this remarkable city and they wear it as a badge of honor. If you have never been, go. If you have been before, go again. And if you experience it every day, you are very fortunate to call New York City home.
Here are my New York City tourist tips:
- Try staying in the “other” boroughs. New York City is not just Manhattan. Spend a few days experiencing Brooklyn, the Bronx, Queens, and Staten Island. Trust me, they have something for everyone. I have captured some of my Brooklyn experience below.
- There is such a thing as free. The Staten Island Ferry (big orange boat, hard to miss) is free. Even better, the ferry provides a great view of the Statue of Liberty. Go to the Whitehall Terminal at the southern tip of Manhattan. Boats leave every 30 minutes. Once on board, find the lower level and move to the outside deck for great photo opportunities. These decks are larger and less crowded than the entrance level.
- The subway. Speaking of public transportation, this one isn’t free, but it will get you everywhere you need to go. Convenient and relatively clean, it’s one of the most efficient subway systems in the world. Plan well, be aware of your surroundings, avoid rush hour if possible and be aware that some stops close during non-peak hours. Most of all, enjoy the experience, especially if you live in a large city without mass transit.
- Hoof it. While riding the subway from point to point is the most efficient way to get around, don’t forget to venture above ground as well. Seeing the city from street level is a fantastic way to get the lay of the land and see the many intricacies that NYC has to offer. SoHo, the East Village, Rockefeller Center, Times Square and Central Park are just a few of the prime sauntering locations.
- It’s kind of hip to be Square. Though I would consider Times Square a must see, limit your time in this tourist trap. To see it at night is more enjoyable than daytime; however, I can’t help but feel, as many native New Yorkers have complained before, that it’s New York’s version of Disneyland. Less edgy than days gone by, you may be overwhelmed by Mickey, Ronald, and supersized toy stores than intrigued by any sort of edginess it may have once had.
- You can’t top it. You hear a lot about going to the top of the Empire State Building for breathtaking views of the city. My advice, go to the top of Rockefeller Center and enjoy views of both the Empire State Building and Central Park instead. Unfortunately you can only see a slice of the Chrysler Building from here; however, you are able to capture a more complete image of the Manhattan skyline and the bustling cityscape below. $20 will get you to the top. It’s worth it.
- I’ll buy it! A walk on the Brooklyn Bridge is a very memorable experience and a great photo opportunity. At almost 6,000 feet long there is no need to cross the bridge, as a stroll to the half way point is sufficient. Actual New Yorkers still use the bridge for running and biking, so be aware when looking up to snap pictures. Otherwise you might just hear “watch out!”.
And the food:
- Eat the pizza. Everyone talks about it. Large, cheesy, greasy…and delicious. Pick any halfway decent looking pizzeria and you won’t walk out disappointed. Even better after a night of boozing.
- Papaya King. Sorry Nathan’s, this hot dog is the pride of New York. Get the Original Special that includes two Frankfurters with your choice of tangy kraut, grilled onions or tropical relish, and a 16 oz. tropical drink.
- When Harry met Pastrami. Truth be told, I have never seen When Harry Met Sally. Never actually want to. So when I told someone that I really wanted to eat at Katz’s, I was a bit puzzled by their look of disgust. This expression was a result of the 1980’s film and not the excellent food that is served at Katz’s Delicatessen. The pastrami is a must. You know when a place of this reputation is still filled with locals, it must be good. And last but not least, don’t forget to send Salami to your boy in the Army! It will make sense after you visit. See Bourdain's related blog article about places likes Katz's not fading away any time soon.
Featured 'hood: Park Slope, Brooklyn
They say that Park Slope is the part of Brooklyn that families relocating from Manhattan gravitate towards. Well kept brownstones, large parks and plenty of quaint eateries probably play a big part in this decision. With less commotion, it still feels like New York City.
I feel fortunate that we chose to stay in Park Slope during most of our recent visit. It’s away from all the other tourists and it provided a nice break from the high prices of almost everything in Manhattan. Some call it one of the first areas in Brooklyn’s rapid gentrification. This is most apparent on 5th and 7th Streets. There are plenty good food, quality spirits and a diverse group of New Yorkers going about their lives without the disruption that comes with “out of towners” like us. Though often apparent that we did not reside in Park Slope, we were always made to feel like we were from the ‘hood.
It should be noted that hotels are rare in these parts and though less expensive than Manhattan, it can be a bit more of a challenge to find a place. We found a reasonably priced, yet worn around the edges room in a shared brownstone on VRBO. It worked out well, but I recommend doing your homework and finding a place with at least a handful of recommendations.
See
- Prospect Park-The little sister to Central Park, this “585-acre urban oasis” is located on the north edge of Park Slope. Go to one of the local establishments for some take out and have a picnic in the park.
- Brooklyn Central Public Library-At the north entrance to Prospect Park, this massive library is a sight to see. Check it out!
Eat
- Chip Shop-Deep fried English goodness. Try the Cod & Fries and a side of the Deep Fried Mac & Cheese. This place has great beer and tea selections. The special desert when we visited in March was a deep fried Cadbury Egg. Wait staff was jolly excellent! 383 5th Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11215
- Rachel's Taqueria-Enjoy a hand squeezed grapefruit margarita or the Rachel margarita with prickly pear and sweet nectar. Yes, they have better than average Tex-Mex grub as well. 408 5th Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11215
- Blue Ribbon Sushi-Brooklyn branch of this Manhattan chain. Good quality sushi, but a bit on the pricier side. 278 5th Avenue, Brooklyn, NY 11215
Drink
- Royale-A dark hole in the wall with good drinks. Late nights liven up the place, for better or worse. 506 5th Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11215
- Smith's Tavern-run of the mill Irish dive. The décor is nothing special, but strong pours do the trick. 440 5th Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11215
- Commonwealth-great neighborhood bar with better than average juke box. 497 5th Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11215
Want to see more of our New York City photos? Click here.
Related:
Why it just got harder to blog in NYC.
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