Vancouver 2010 - 500m Speed Skating

We are looking forward to speed skating today, but the highlight of the event is the signature building of the games, the Richmond Olympic Oval. This is one of the few entirely new venues for the Olympics and it is by far the most architecturally significant. The Oval sits on the banks of the Fraser River in Richmond, a Southern suburb of Vancouver and home to Vancouver International Airport, YVR. The low-slung building features one of the longest clear spans in North America, the "Wood Wave" roof constructed of one million board feet of native wood from trees downed by pine beetles.

This is the Men's 500m Long Track Speed Skating Finals. It is a short distance race on a long distance track, 1.25 laps on an oval measuring 400m. Competitors skate in pairs from two lanes, and cross-over mid-race. The distance skating from the inner and outer lane is the same, but the advantage is not. This is a sprint with speed building through the race. The skater in the inside lane for the final turn has the advantage. To correct for this, each competitor skates twice, once from each lane. The times from each race are combined to determine the final standings. 39 skaters will race twice in pairs, so we will see 40 races, with a pause after each ten races to resurface the ice. This is an exciting sport. It lacks the crowded ice and spectacular crashes of short track speed skating, but long track skaters reach speeds of 60km per hour. It is the fastest human-powered sport.

We lined up on the dyke overlooking the river as we waited for the doors to open two hours ahead of race time. This building has been designed as a multi-purpose community venue post-games, and much of the infrastructure for the Olympics is temporary. We entered through tents and walked under scaffolding on the way to lunch at the concession stands. Decent standard hot dog, bun steamed soft, and pretty good chili, more Stagg than Nalley. The house was full, the crowds favoring Canada, Finland, and the Netherlands. We had great seats in Row 17 above turn four and the staring line. The starter sounded like a drunken Quebeccer with a speech impediment, like former Canadian Prime Minister Jean Chretien after a moderate stroke. As each race was about to begin, he would call the athletes to the starting line, "Go to the start." The skaters glided forward, the tip of the front skate just on the line, the back skate biting into the ice for maximum leverage. The starter called, "Ready..." and the skaters lowered into a crouch. As the starting gun popped, the racers exploded from the line, accelerating down the straightaway with powerful alternating thrusts. Just incredible!!!

The first ten races went off without a hitch, but at the first intermission, the ice resurfacers failed for the second day in a row. We were delayed for more than an hour as they tried to address the problem. Zamboni is the eponymous brand in ice resurfacing, but this Olympic ice was trusted to Olympia resurfacers. Not good, but we were not without entertainment.

Brass band Kleintje Pils tours with the racers on the World Cup entertaining speed skating crowds all over Europe. They made the trip to the Olympics and kept us warm singing along to the classics. When the ice settled and the racing concluded, just 22 hundredths of a second separated gold medal winner Mo Tae-Bum of Korea from the Japanese skaters that took silver and bronze. The winning time was a combined 69.82 seconds over two 500m races.

After our speed skating marathon, we stopped at Rob Feenie's Cactus Club Cafe for dinner. Rob Feenie WAS the celebrity chef extraordinaire of Vancouver. Lumiere was among the very best fine dining destinations in Canada. The casual Feenies next door delivered the same quality food in less-fussy preparations, featuring an outstanding smoked cheese dog, Feenies Weanie, and a killer duck shepherd's pie. The chef was the Emeril of the Canadian Food Network. Then he lost it all. Investors forced him out of his restaurants and brought in international uber-chef and restaurateur, Daniel Boulud. More about that in a later post. Adrift, a chef without a kitchen, Rob Feenie landed at Cactus Club Cafe, a Canadian chain of mid-range steak and cosmo houses with an ethnic twist, as executive chef. I love Rob Feenie's food and this was my first experience with his new gig. This location in suburban Vancouver near the border is very slick with dark wood, slate, and glass. It is the answer to the question, "Where do you go when you're too old to hang out at the frat house anymore?" The menu is fine, but not particularly inspired. The chef's specialties are noted with an "RF." There is a tuna tataki and a beef carpaccio. We started with a very pedestrian smoked cheddar chicken and spinach dip followed by very good short rib sandwiches, luscious shards of fatty juicy short rib and caramelized onions on sourdough toasted with emmental cheese, beef jus on the side for dipping. Dinner was satisfying, but oh how the mighty have fallen.

When we are not at the games, we are watching them live on Canadian television. CTV is available at Semiahmoo and it's a welcome change from the tape delays and rampant American nationalism of NBC's much-maligned coverage.

Next Event: Men's Super-Combined Downhill

TG

Vancouver 2010 - Ski Jumping

Our home base for the Olympics is the Semiahmoo resort in Blaine, WA, on the opposite side of Drayton Harbor from the Peace Arch border crossing. We are about fifteen minutes from the border, 45 minutes from Vancouver, and three hours from Whistler. Traffic is heavily restricted in the city and on the Sea to Sky highway leading to Whistler, so we will rely on the Sky Train for Vancouver events and buses to Whistler.

We left Semiahmoo at 4:00 this morning to catch a bus from the British Columbia Institute of Technology for the ride to Whistler.

Our first event of the Olympics, the first medal event of the games, is Men's Normal Hill Ski Jumping from Whistler Olympic Park.

We got to the top of the mountain and climbed off the bus at 7:00 just as the sun was starting to rise over the trees. I have skied here before in a former life and it is one of the most beautiful places on Earth. Snow capped mountains frame the view in every direction. The morning was crisp and clear as we set out for the jumping hill.

We trudged through the snow and ice, my new Yaktrax providing outstanding traction. Our first stop was the concession stand for some hot cocoa, but I was distracted by the full menu and the promise of pork schnitzel. When bacon is not available, any pork will do. We had assigned seating in the grandstands for this event so we headed to our seats. There is not a bad seat in the house and we had a great view, but these are not box seats. The benches were cold, hard, and wet. Our asses suffered greatly.

There are two hills at Whistler Olympic Park. The taller hill on the left is called the "Large Hill," while the shorter hill on the right is the "Normal Hill." There is reader board on the left and a video board on the right.

Ski jumping is scored using two components, distance and style. Judges award style points based on the skier's tuck riding down the hill, the "V" position of their skis and the forward position of the shoulders in the air, and the telemark form of the landing. Style and distance tend to be positively correlated; jumpers with the most perfect style will usually carry the greatest distance. Forerunners take multiple jumps before the competitors to help marshals set the course. The bar from which the jumpers take off can be adjusted up or down the hill depending on conditions. Optimal conditions allow for take-off speeds of between 86 and 87 kilometers per hour. This ensures that most skiers land between the red lines on the hill. If the best jumpers go much beyond that zone, the hill flattens out and the force of impact increases exponentially. Wind is also closely monitored. Counter intuitively, headwinds favor the competitor, tailwinds are a disadvantage. Wind at the back of the skier creates a vacum as they jump, while wind in their face creates lift and carries them further. Fellow SSBD blogger James J. claims that ski jumpers are never more than ten feet off the ground. I can't confirm or deny this claim, but it seems about right.

There are 51 jumpers. Each will get a practice jump and one competition jump, then the top 30 jump in the final round.

How was it??? Well, repetitive and boring. 130 jumps looked almost identical. 20 meters separated the shortest from the longest and not a single jumper fell. Not that I was rooting for injuries, but there was not a lot of excitement to keep us warm. Nor were our loyalties rewarded. Not a single Canadian qualified and the Americans were not competitive. In the end, there was little suspense. The favorite coming in to the competition had the longest jump of the first round at 105 meters, the longest jump of the second round at 108 meters, and the best style scores. Swiss jumper Simon Ammann took the first gold medal of the games.

Next Event: Men's 500m Speed Skating

TG

BAR NUN-Bar Bolero in Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico

Puerto Vallarta has little in the way of what most cities consider “hipster” bars, but Bar Bolero is among the few.  That’s by no means meant to be disparaging, it just happens to be a very cool yet kitschy place.  A cozy little hang-out on the corner where Tequila Town used to reside, next door to Roxy’s Sports Bar & live music club, Bolero has an atmosphere much more akin to what you may expect to find in San Francisco, L.A, or Seattle.  This makes perfect sense, as at last visit, it was owned and operated by the proprietor of San Francisco’s classic dive, The Phone Booth (1398 S. Van Ness Ave. SF, CA 94110). 

While not technically a dive bar, the drink selection is astoundingly affordable.  All summer long Happy Hour lasts from 2 PM to 4 AM and features an overwhelming variety of premium cocktails, for the preposterously low price of 15 to 30 pesos.  Click here for currency converter.  Let me run down the drink menu for you so you can be amazed.

  I’m talking about bottled beers for 15 pesos – right this minute, this is only a few cents more than one US dollar, people.  That might be less than it costs at the grocery store!  Got cash burning a hole in your Bermuda short pocket?  What can you get for 20 pesos, you ask?  For less than two US dollars (I am not kidding, this is a super value destination), you can dump some shots of Jameson down your gullet, or you can have some fancy cocktails, like pina coladas, mai tais, margaritas, Russians, or tangy, delicious lime daiquiris.  For real!

Also available is what has to be my personal favorite name for a beverage, the Big Vicky, a 40 Ouncer of beer of indeterminate brand.  Seriously, Big Vicky!  It could be the name of a lady luchador! 

Bar Bolero has a wonderfully tacky collection of outsized black velvet paintings beautifying the interior, including the characteristic Matador and Stalking Puma varieties.  There is no juke box, but during our visit, obscure 1980’s songs and videos played over the sound system.   Also available for your entertainment is a pool table, but it seems that in order to use it, you have to beat the tight designer jeans-wearing Mexican rent boys taking a break from watching futbol next door at Roxy’s to it. 

Bolero is dark yet open, with large windows inviting warm Pacific breezes.  The lighting is dim and golden like candlelight, lending heavenly auras to all and making everyone attractive.  Lighting and fixtures appear to be custom metal pieces, giving a very arty atmosphere to the lounge, which is lined with serape-covered cushioned benches.  It’s a very comfortable and extremely difficult to leave, especially when the lime daiquiris keep on coming.

One excellent reason to leave, if only for a few moments, however; is that directly across the street is a taco cart, which appears to be frequently on fire, selling sublime tacos al pastor late into the night.   FP  

El Bolero A Go Go      

Ignacio Vallarta 229     

(322) 223-2358

 

Vancouver 2010 - Opening Day

Welcome to Cascadia, the Pacific Northwest, and the Lower Mainland!!! Welcome to Canada, British Columbia, Vancouver, and Whistler!!! Welcome to the 2010 winter Olympics!!!

This is my home, and I am proud!!! I grew up in the Northern suburbs of Seattle and went to college at Western Washington University in Bellingham, just South of the Canadian border. I now live in the heart of Downtown Seattle. Vancouver has always been to me both as wondrous as the exotic other and as familiar as the brother I never had. We are, as is engraved on the Peace Arch that marks the border, "Children of a Common Mother." Vancouver is my favorite city in the world, the perfect marriage of urban and natural, glass and green. Canada was the first stamp in my passport. I came here for family vacations and soccer exchanges as a kid. I took my first legal drink here on my 19th birthday, and saw strippers for the first time. I have smoked BC bud and Cuban cigars looking across Coal Harbor from Stanley Park. I have walked the Sea Wall and cruised under the Lion's Gate Bridge. I have attended the Sumo Canada Basho at the PNE, Molson Indy at Concord Pacific Place, and the Symphony of Fire over English Bay. And now the Olympics. I was there at GM Place on July 2, 2003 when Vancouver was awarded the 2010 Winter Olympics, and I will be at the games attending more than 20 events over the next two weeks.

Are the Olympics still cool? I am not the arbiter of cool, but I still believe. Even in Vancouver, public sentiment is mixed and protests have followed the torch relay. In a city of great wealth and opportunity, there is also great despair and poverty. Critics are right in claiming that the billions devoted to the games could be better spent helping the people, especially in the Downtown Eastside, the most drug-affected neighborhood in North America. It is also true that the Olympics have been taken over by commercial enterprise. They are a multi-billion dollar proposition with winners and losers. NBC is expected to lose $250 million on the Games, having submitted their bid at the height of the economy while selling ad time at an historical low. Co-Sport has exclusive rights to sell tickets in the US and several European countries. They are expected to make more on the games than any other entity. Corporate sponsorships and hospitality tents will be ubiquitous. Even some of the athletes will cash in. Snowboarder Shaun White makes $10 million a year. Short track speed skater Apolo Ohno is a celebrity and danced with the stars. Ski racer Lindsey Vonn will become the star of the Olympics if she can overcome a bruised shin and live up to the hype. But most of these Olympians are un-sung heroes. They have devoted their lives, given up the easy freedom of youth, and toiled in anonymity for a shot at victory and glory in their most pure forms. They seek challenge and progress and competition, while embracing the international Olympic spirit. They are athletes and ambassadors, and I am rooting for them.

Opening ceremonies are like musicals, spectacular and emotional at their best, silly and boring at their worst. Also like musicals, they have very little to do with real life. This will be no exception. I don't like musicals. Just the same, I hate to miss a spectacle. So, without tickets, we decided to make a run at it. We crossed the border to Surrey and rode the Sky Train into the city. We got off at Stadium station and joined the throngs headed for the ceremonies. The crowd was jovial, if not jubilant, dressed for the winter that never came and draped in the flags of world. Tickets for Opening Ceremonies in the US market were priced $600, $900, and $1,300. We could never pull the trigger for that kind of money, but we had cash in hand if there was a deal to be had. There was not. As we wandered among the crowds, many people were looking to buy, but very few were selling. I monitored Craig's list from my Blackberry, but every lead was a dead end. We checked the box office at the stadium. We could get in for $1,100. Not worth it. With the rain starting to fall and the public viewing plaza in Yaletown filling up, we went home to watch the ceremonies on TV.

If you were interested, you joined the three billion people worldwide who watched it live. For my money, I am glad I didn't spend it. The evening was dominated by First Nations mythology that has never interested me. The music, virtually all of it lip-synched and performed at half-tempo, failed to inspire. Even "O Canada," the most beautiful national anthem in the world, was flat. Some of the imagery was beautiful, and the projection technology impressive. The dancing images of light magically turned the floor of the stadium into the surface of the Earth. This effect was at its loveliest as a young man ran through, and floated above, amber waves of grain, set to the Joni Mitchell classic, "Both Sides Now." The lighting of the cauldron, however, the highlight of any opening ceremony, was ill conceived and poorly executed. The plan to have four greats light the cauldron together was very Canadian, but lame and uninspired. Having both an outdoor and an indoor cauldron was an awkward solution to holding the ceremonies in a covered stadium. The technical difficulties raising the fourth ramp of fire ended the ceremonies with a thud, echoing the sound of Georgian luger Nodar Kumaritashvili hitting the pillar of death in Whistler.

Opening Day left me non-plussed, but the excitement begins tomorrow.

Next Event: Men's Normal Hill Ski Jumping

Watch us go for the gold!

SSBD Travel is happy to welcome Tres G. as our newest contributor.  Tres has sailed five of the Seven Seas and toured six of the Seven Continents. He has cruised Down Under and flown Up Over. He has been around the world, and is as round as the world. He will go anywhere and do anything, as long as there is first-class transport and five-star accommodations. He doesn't own a backpack and has never stayed in a hostel. He has a filthy mouth and a refined palette, both of which crave bacon above all else. His guilty pleasures include lapel pins and the worst of American pop music. He is the Everyman, yet one of a kind; he speaks for his generation and writes for no one but himself. Tres is our correspondent to the 2010 Winter Olympic Games in Vancouver. Look for his nightly updates après-ski and post-skate.

2 Tickets to Parasites by Rachel Flotard-a reprinted article.

If you don’t know who Rachel Flotard is, you should. Rachel and her band Visqueen have been supplying a heavy dose of rock/pop/punk music since 2001. Their new record, Message to Garcia was released September 8^th, 2009. Their third record, it shines with well crafted, catchy songs from the heart. The record was inspired by George Flotard, Rachel’s father, who was a New York Steamfitter and no-nonsense kind of guy. After a lengthy battle with prostate cancer he passed away in April of 2008. Rachel started her own label called Local 638 Records, to honor her father and his NYC Steamfitters union.

After her father’s passing, Rachel decided to go on a journey to Laos. During her trip she started a blog to capture her experiences. Land Of A Million Elephants. And One Flotard is a collection of her stories as a first time visitor to Laos. Rachel was gracious enough to allow us to reprint one of her stories.

2 Tickets to Parasites-Originally posted on November 5^th, 2008 by Rachel Flotard

My first taste of Pho in Laos. We walked up and down the streets trying to decide on where to go. Justin had been to this little spot before, and he was still alive.

It was open to the sidewalk, hot, and a poodle with one eye was walking around. He was curly, once white, and the super cute house mascot. We pulled up some plastic chairs and ordered two chicken soups. I walked over to a small cold case and pulled out two bottles of water. Towards the back of the restaurant was a vinyl lawn chaise lounge occupied by a young man watching TV with no shoes on. When I say there is no 409 or Windex for a thousand miles I mean it. And it's great.

Shortly after our order, he got up and delivered 2 glasses of ice water brimming with future shits and a side of rickety ass limes.

The nice woman delivered the soup. It was delicious salty broth with chicken that had been simmering since yesterday (sure!). There were bits of garlic and skin with the goosebumps still on them. Justin passed me some choppers and I said a hail Mary to my metal spoon.

At that moment, Justin was about to put his chopsticks in his mouth when I noticed the "Tranny Pink" shade of Wet N' Wild on the end of his utensil. I glances at it and said, "Uhh..dude, you might want to change that out". He did. And we ate the hell out of those bowls as if our bowels were back at the room.

I'm happy to report as we rode to the market by tuk tuk and enjoyed the day, there was nary a barf or reeah among us.
Khop Jai!!

Now to anyone reading this that has not purchased Message to Garcia, do yourself a favor and get it. You will be glad you did. For more of Rachel’s writing about her trip to Laos, visit her blog Land Of A Million Elephants. And One Flotard.

I think I just saw the ghost of Abbot & Costello in Hollyweird!

Hollywood always entertains. Even in death. This October how about treating yourself to a walking cemetery tour of the stars? Visit grave sites for the likes of Cecil B. Demille, Jane Mansfield and even Carl "Alfalfa" Switzer. The "Cemetery of the Stars" tour typically runs on Saturday and Sunday of each week. Click here to visit their website.

Also buried at Hollywood Forever are Johnny and Dee Dee Ramone; however, we are not sure if they are a part of the tour. Check out the famous statue of Johnny. Now that is rock n' roll! JJ

Did Leonardo da Vinci like Shamrock shakes?

I couldn't really get a good exterior picture of the Pantheon in Rome. It certainly wasn't due to a lack of trying. The piazza in front, like many things in Rome is fairly cramped. As I backed up as far as I could to capture the entire building, I gathered a faint smell of french fries. Overhead was a large red sign with golden arches. That is right, smack dab in the middle of Piazza della Minerva is a McDonald's. Not a complete surprise since McDonald's and other fast food establishments dot the landscape of this historic city. However, most of them are in train stations, busy streets, or next to hotels. This particular McDonald's provides one of the best views of this almost 1900 year old structure.

Now comes word the French are ready to place a McDonald's in the Lourve. Actually it will be located in Carrousel du Louvre, an underground mall located next to the museum. Perfect. Now you can enjoy the glory of the Winged Victory of Samothrace while eating a Big Mac. JJ

Related: L.A. Times-McDonald's to hang out its shingle near Mona Lisa's home in the Carrousel du Louvre

Austin-Help wanted. What to do in the live music capital of the world?

Same Same is taking a short trip to Austin, TX, USA very soon. Our plans include visiting the much lauded Salt Lick BBQ, a day trip to San Antonio to tour the Alamo, the San Antonio River Walk, swimming at Barton Springs and some quality time with great music.

The bands we’re looking forward to seeing this October in Austin are the Murder City Devils at the fantastic outdoor venue The Mohawk, Ruby Dee & the Snake Handlers, and we sure hope we get the chance to see Austin up and comers Oak Is Keeping. If you like Oak Is Keeping, you can vote for them in the Airwalk Unsigned Heroes contest and and help them get a record deal.

Please send Same Same suggestions if you have ideas for additional fun in Austin. We are always on the lookout for interesting activities. FB

I want to rock n' roll all-night and sleep in my free Motel 6 room the next day.

Try throwing the TV into the swimming pool when it’s bolted to the bureau, bad boys. That’s right, (select group of) Rock Stars! Budget giant Motel 6 is willing to host you for free if you’re on the right label. They are currently working to expand their roster of touring bands that are being offered free rooms, but this is a pretty interesting promotion. Just don’t expect the groupies to be to terribly impressed to be taken back to your room. But if you’re drunk, they’ll leave the light on for you. FP

Related: NY Daily News-Keep on rockin' in the free rooms: Motel 6 shakes up image by offering free stays to bands

The Lower East Side Hotel will offer rooms with a different kind of view.

Are you brave enough to go to the bathroom in front of your bunk mate? Me either. Our friends at Hotel Chatter are reporting the currently in design Lower East Side Hotel are taking the "open concept" to a whole new level. There is a shower and toilet, but no walls for privacy. I can see it now, "Honey will you leave the room for a moment? I need to take care of some business."

The hotel will be in the Lower East Side/SoHo area and will include 220 modern European minimalist style rooms. Between this and The Standard NYC, we are kind of waxing nostalgic for the old Times Square. JJ