BAR NUN-Bar Bolero in Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico

Puerto Vallarta has little in the way of what most cities consider “hipster” bars, but Bar Bolero is among the few.  That’s by no means meant to be disparaging, it just happens to be a very cool yet kitschy place.  A cozy little hang-out on the corner where Tequila Town used to reside, next door to Roxy’s Sports Bar & live music club, Bolero has an atmosphere much more akin to what you may expect to find in San Francisco, L.A, or Seattle.  This makes perfect sense, as at last visit, it was owned and operated by the proprietor of San Francisco’s classic dive, The Phone Booth (1398 S. Van Ness Ave. SF, CA 94110). 

While not technically a dive bar, the drink selection is astoundingly affordable.  All summer long Happy Hour lasts from 2 PM to 4 AM and features an overwhelming variety of premium cocktails, for the preposterously low price of 15 to 30 pesos.  Click here for currency converter.  Let me run down the drink menu for you so you can be amazed.

  I’m talking about bottled beers for 15 pesos – right this minute, this is only a few cents more than one US dollar, people.  That might be less than it costs at the grocery store!  Got cash burning a hole in your Bermuda short pocket?  What can you get for 20 pesos, you ask?  For less than two US dollars (I am not kidding, this is a super value destination), you can dump some shots of Jameson down your gullet, or you can have some fancy cocktails, like pina coladas, mai tais, margaritas, Russians, or tangy, delicious lime daiquiris.  For real!

Also available is what has to be my personal favorite name for a beverage, the Big Vicky, a 40 Ouncer of beer of indeterminate brand.  Seriously, Big Vicky!  It could be the name of a lady luchador! 

Bar Bolero has a wonderfully tacky collection of outsized black velvet paintings beautifying the interior, including the characteristic Matador and Stalking Puma varieties.  There is no juke box, but during our visit, obscure 1980’s songs and videos played over the sound system.   Also available for your entertainment is a pool table, but it seems that in order to use it, you have to beat the tight designer jeans-wearing Mexican rent boys taking a break from watching futbol next door at Roxy’s to it. 

Bolero is dark yet open, with large windows inviting warm Pacific breezes.  The lighting is dim and golden like candlelight, lending heavenly auras to all and making everyone attractive.  Lighting and fixtures appear to be custom metal pieces, giving a very arty atmosphere to the lounge, which is lined with serape-covered cushioned benches.  It’s a very comfortable and extremely difficult to leave, especially when the lime daiquiris keep on coming.

One excellent reason to leave, if only for a few moments, however; is that directly across the street is a taco cart, which appears to be frequently on fire, selling sublime tacos al pastor late into the night.   FP  

El Bolero A Go Go      

Ignacio Vallarta 229     

(322) 223-2358

 

Watch us go for the gold!

SSBD Travel is happy to welcome Tres G. as our newest contributor.  Tres has sailed five of the Seven Seas and toured six of the Seven Continents. He has cruised Down Under and flown Up Over. He has been around the world, and is as round as the world. He will go anywhere and do anything, as long as there is first-class transport and five-star accommodations. He doesn't own a backpack and has never stayed in a hostel. He has a filthy mouth and a refined palette, both of which crave bacon above all else. His guilty pleasures include lapel pins and the worst of American pop music. He is the Everyman, yet one of a kind; he speaks for his generation and writes for no one but himself. Tres is our correspondent to the 2010 Winter Olympic Games in Vancouver. Look for his nightly updates après-ski and post-skate.

New York City-An Inconvenient Series of Unfortunate Misconceptions and Half-truths

New York City. A place that I have always wanted to visit, but I only recently made it. Boy, am I glad I did! The Big Apple, the City that Never Sleeps, you know all the nicknames. It’s a place that truly has LIFE. Though hard around the edges, New Yorkers have nothing to hide. They seem to lay it out there for all to see and don’t care what you think. I’m not sure what Sarah Palin was referring to when she described what “real Americans” are, but I would have to give that designation to the fine people of New York City. Here, it takes all kinds, it’s a true melting pot if there ever was one.

There are many misconceptions about New York and its inhabitants. I’m not sure if New Yorkers want it this way, but it’s true in my experience. Certainly New Yorkers move at speeds just a bit faster than most others, there is an excessive amount of honking, and most everyone wears black. I think it’s required that one must wear at least one item of black clothing. However, there are many stereotypes about the city and its people that I had difficulty proving. The first, that New Yorkers are rude. Not true. Sure they have their moments, but I would view it as being more “direct” than anything. The majority of my experience was thoughtful, helpful, and downright courteous souls that were willing to do what needed to be done. They are genuine in their approach and quickly move on when the task is complete. Now I live in a supposedly friendly West Coast city where the people are not as nearly as good hearted. Sure, in my town, they may walk down the street with a smile and give you a nod as you pass, but most are also not willing to provide any assistance when needed. In addition, you never really know where you stand with most of these people. Not in New York. Good or bad you always seem to have an idea of how the situation is going to unfold.

The second misconception, that New York is overwhelming. Yes, it is a city of over 8 million people and can be difficult to navigate at times, but common sense will prevail. There are plenty of landmarks by which to get your bearings, helpful signs to steer you in the right direction, and a century old subway system that is clean and efficient. As with any trip, plan ahead. Pick up a Lonely Planet or Moon guide and understand the basics. From there, decide on the attractions that you must see, would like to see, and the ones that would be nice to see. Break those down by location and budget, then buy a comfortable pair of walking shoes. In the end, hopefully you will have seen most of what you wanted and can save the rest for next time. I’m sure they’ll be waiting for you. Later in this article I’ll provide you with my top picks.

Third, New York City is filthy and there are rats everywhere. Even this one surprised me, as I like a bit of grit and was fully expecting it. I’m here to say New York is clean. Granted, it’s not spotless, but compared to the likes of Los Angeles, San Francisco, or even Las Vegas, it’s a clean place. Very little litter on the streets, limited graffiti, and very few visible rats. I’d been told that I’d see rats all over, and giant ones at that. In eight days I saw two and one of those was in Coney Island. Giant rats? No, about the size of a small cat. I’m sure they’re lurking in the dark, dank places that aren’t meant for me to see, but isn’t that the point? Out of sight, out of mind?

Now I understand those tacky “I heart NY” t-shirts that every tourist seems to buy. It’s true. New York is a city that is beloved. But most of that love is not from the millions of people that flock to Times Square and the top of the Empire State building. That love comes from people that live there day after day. They have pride in this remarkable city and they wear it as a badge of honor. If you have never been, go. If you have been before, go again. And if you experience it every day, you are very fortunate to call New York City home.

Here are my New York City tourist tips:

• Try staying in the “other” boroughs. New York City is not just Manhattan. Spend a few days experiencing Brooklyn, the Bronx, Queens, and Staten Island. Trust me, they have something for everyone. I have captured some of my Brooklyn experience below.
• There is such a thing as free. The Staten Island Ferry (big orange boat, hard to miss) is free. Even better, the ferry provides a great view of the Statue of Liberty. Go to the Whitehall Terminal at the southern tip of Manhattan. Boats leave every 30 minutes. Once on board, find the lower level and move to the outside deck for great photo opportunities. These decks are larger and less crowded than the entrance level.
• The subway. Speaking of public transportation, this one isn’t free, but it will get you everywhere you need to go. Convenient and relatively clean, it’s one of the most efficient subway systems in the world. Plan well, be aware of your surroundings, avoid rush hour if possible and be aware that some stops close during non-peak hours. Most of all, enjoy the experience, especially if you live in a large city without mass transit.
• Hoof it. While riding the subway from point to point is the most efficient way to get around, don’t forget to venture above ground as well. Seeing the city from street level is a fantastic way to get the lay of the land and see the many intricacies that NYC has to offer. SoHo, the East Village, Rockefeller Center, Times Square and Central Park are just a few of the prime sauntering locations.
• It’s kind of hip to be Square. Though I would consider Times Square a must see, limit your time in this tourist trap. To see it at night is more enjoyable than daytime; however, I can’t help but feel, as many native New Yorkers have complained before, that it’s New York’s version of Disneyland. Less edgy than days gone by, you may be overwhelmed by Mickey, Ronald, and supersized toy stores than intrigued by any sort of edginess it may have once had.
• You can’t top it. You hear a lot about going to the top of the Empire State Building for breathtaking views of the city. My advice, go to the top of Rockefeller Center and enjoy views of both the Empire State Building and Central Park instead. Unfortunately you can only see a slice of the Chrysler Building from here; however, you are able to capture a more complete image of the Manhattan skyline and the bustling cityscape below. $20 will get you to the top. It’s worth it.
• I’ll buy it! A walk on the Brooklyn Bridge is a very memorable experience and a great photo opportunity. At almost 6,000 feet long there is no need to cross the bridge, as a stroll to the half way point is sufficient. Actual New Yorkers still use the bridge for running and biking, so be aware when looking up to snap pictures. Otherwise you might just hear “watch out!”.

And the food:

• Eat the pizza. Everyone talks about it. Large, cheesy, greasy…and delicious. Pick any halfway decent looking pizzeria and you won’t walk out disappointed. Even better after a night of boozing.
• Papaya King. Sorry Nathan’s, this hot dog is the pride of New York. Get the Original Special that includes two Frankfurters with your choice of tangy kraut, grilled onions or tropical relish, and a 16 oz. tropical drink.

• When Harry met Pastrami. Truth be told, I have never seen When Harry Met Sally. Never actually want to. So when I told someone that I really wanted to eat at Katz’s, I was a bit puzzled by their look of disgust. This expression was a result of the 1980’s film and not the excellent food that is served at Katz’s Delicatessen. The pastrami is a must. You know when a place of this reputation is still filled with locals, it must be good. And last but not least, don’t forget to send Salami to your boy in the Army! It will make sense after you visit. See Bourdain's related blog article about places likes Katz's not fading away any time soon.

Featured 'hood: Park Slope, Brooklyn

They say that Park Slope is the part of Brooklyn that families relocating from Manhattan gravitate towards. Well kept brownstones, large parks and plenty of quaint eateries probably play a big part in this decision. With less commotion, it still feels like New York City.

I feel fortunate that we chose to stay in Park Slope during most of our recent visit. It’s away from all the other tourists and it provided a nice break from the high prices of almost everything in Manhattan. Some call it one of the first areas in Brooklyn’s rapid gentrification. This is most apparent on 5^th and 7^th Streets. There are plenty good food, quality spirits and a diverse group of New Yorkers going about their lives without the disruption that comes with “out of towners” like us. Though often apparent that we did not reside in Park Slope, we were always made to feel like we were from the ‘hood.

It should be noted that hotels are rare in these parts and though less expensive than Manhattan, it can be a bit more of a challenge to find a place. We found a reasonably priced, yet worn around the edges room in a shared brownstone on VRBO. It worked out well, but I recommend doing your homework and finding a place with at least a handful of recommendations.

See

• Prospect Park-The little sister to Central Park, this “585-acre urban oasis” is located on the north edge of Park Slope. Go to one of the local establishments for some take out and have a picnic in the park.
• Brooklyn Central Public Library-At the north entrance to Prospect Park, this massive library is a sight to see. Check it out!

Eat

• Chip Shop-Deep fried English goodness. Try the Cod & Fries and a side of the Deep Fried Mac & Cheese. This place has great beer and tea selections. The special desert when we visited in March was a deep fried Cadbury Egg. Wait staff was jolly excellent! 383 5th Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11215
• Rachel's Taqueria-Enjoy a hand squeezed grapefruit margarita or the Rachel margarita with prickly pear and sweet nectar. Yes, they have better than average Tex-Mex grub as well. 408 5th Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11215
• Blue Ribbon Sushi-Brooklyn branch of this Manhattan chain. Good quality sushi, but a bit on the pricier side. 278 5th Avenue, Brooklyn, NY 11215

Drink

• Royale-A dark hole in the wall with good drinks. Late nights liven up the place, for better or worse. 506 5th Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11215
• Smith's Tavern-run of the mill Irish dive. The décor is nothing special, but strong pours do the trick. 440 5th Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11215
• Commonwealth-great neighborhood bar with better than average juke box. 497 5th Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11215

New York is a true adventure that has a little (and most often a lot) for everyone. Enjoy. JJ

Want to see more of our New York City photos? Click here.

Related:
Why it just got harder to blog in NYC.

I LOVE FUNNY FOREIGN FOOD!

What is this? Does anyone know? The only English on the package is on the inside of the box lid & says “Pudding Chocolate”, but the pictures on the box look like cartoon flan. It contains individually wrapped candies that resemble soft white chocolate with a brown top. It doesn’t taste like anything else, especially not chocolate & is super sweet. I acquired this bizarre confection at my local Uwajimaya store.

Uwajimaya has a lot of strange Asian candies & packaged foods. Shopping there is like a wee vacation to a major Asian metropolis encapsulated in a one block area. It’s crowded but fun. I can hardly read any of the food packaging. You can spice up a dull day by purchasing something there which you have no idea what it is & making it. It’s a surprise! Fortunately, many of the cooking instructions are accompanied by pictures.

They not only sell groceries & produce, which are often cheaper than at most chain grocery stores, by the way, but contain a bookstore that stocks periodicals, stationery & manga. The candy section & impulse racks are unbelievable, you won’t have a clue what most of it is, & some of it looks like REAL BUGS. (I dare you.) The food court, inexplicably, has a Herfy’s hamburger stand in addition to Japanese, Chinese, Korean & Filipino food stalls. There are also Asian specialty housewares, appliances, & Sanrio products. Combining the latter two, I once saw a waffle iron for sale here that made waffles in the shape of Hello Kitty’s head. I wish I had bought it. Regrets…

So if you want to feel like you are in a foreign city for the day or you just need a takoyaki maker, take a trip to Waji. It’s an adventure. FP

FORGET UNCLE SAM, MEXICO NEEDS YOU!

It may seem an unlikely time to push tourism in the southern portion of our continent, but now more than ever, North American travelers should choose to spend their precious vacation time & money in the Republic of Mexico.

The recent North American furor over the Swine Flu outbreak has been a terrible blow to the economic health of Mexico, but its physical health does not seem at all compromised. The dangers have been blown completely out of proportion by the US news media & the risk of healthy adults contracting any type of illness in Mexico is very low. It’s impossible to stress the use of common sense enough. Exactly like in the US & Canada, clean hands are of utmost importance. Always wash them thoroughly with soap & water before eating. Wash or use hand sanitizer after using ATM’s, handling money, opening doors, holding hand rails, riding in taxis or on public transportation. Keep your hands away from your face. Just as you would at home.

As a frequent Mexico visitor, I’ve never been struck with the flu or a food-bourne illness there. I often ride the bus & I do enjoy street food. I always apply hand sanitizer first, and when available & appropriate, I squeeze a little lime juice into my food or beverage. Did you know that lime juice has antibacterial properties? I have, however, seen other Americans get sick after failing to keep their hands out of their mouths. Mexico is not a more germ-ridden place. The normal germs on things like door handles & table tops just proliferate better in the humid, warm climate, like they did in your gym locker. Don’t be afraid, just be careful.

Currently, the exchange rate for pesos to other North American currency is incredibly reasonable. Of course, this contributes to driving down the cost of living in Mexico. Prices are plummeting, saving money for travelers, but Mexican nationals need you to spend it so much more than North American & European travel markets do. In a conversation I had recently with a Mexican cab driver, he revealed that due to the recent flu related travel restrictions, his monthly income had dropped from 13,000 to 8,000 pesos. This was a significant hardship for him, a parent putting a child through college. Many restaurant & hospitality staffers also told me about major decreases in their work hours & tip earnings due to the reduced tourism. Difficult times for these young adults, many of whom support children or elderly parents. US news agencies also report reductions in income sent home to Mexican families from relatives working abroad.

Beginning Memorial Day weekend, in the Pacific Coast town of Puerto Vallarta, I lived extravagantly off of 3,000 pesos for about 5 days. Bought groceries, restaurant meals, street food, drinks at the bar & souvenirs from vendors. Paid cash only. Didn’t use my debit card once. According to my bank, this withdrawal was for $228 USD. Much, much less than I spend in a week on these items in the States. My lodgings were booked through VRBO, where I scored an amazing condo for $390 USD for 6 nights because rental rates are dropping. If you’ve ever stayed in even a mid-priced hotel, you know this is a ridiculously low price, and it included a rooftop swimming pool, balcony, kitchen, & was a single block from the beach. Also enjoyed PV Restaurant Week, where gourmet 3 course meals were priced between 179 – 299 pesos at top eateries throughout the city. As you can see, great values are abundant. So please, when planning upcoming trips, consider the wonderful cities & kind people of Mexico. They look forward to your visit much more than the amusement parks attendants and motel employees of the US do. FP